Nine car-free islands in the Sea of Marmara — Istanbul's escape valve for pine forests, horse carriages and 19th-century villas.
Related cities:Istanbul · See also:Sea of Marmara
The Princes' Islands are nine specks of pine and sandstone in the Sea of Marmara, 20 km south of Istanbul's historic peninsula. They're the city's most civilized escape — no cars, no traffic noise, just the clip-clop of horse carriages (now mostly electric) and the smell of sea salt and forest. What makes them essential isn't the beaches or the monasteries; it's the feeling of stepping into a 19th-century summer colony where Ottoman elites built wooden villas to catch the breeze. The ferries from Eminönü and Bostancı cost about 30 TL each way and run hourly; the crossing takes 45 minutes to Kınalıada, 90 minutes to Büyükada. Skip the weekend crowds if you can — Tuesday or Wednesday morning, when the islanders are doing their shopping and the tourists are still asleep, is when the place makes sense.
The islands were never really 'princes' — the name comes from Byzantine-era exiles, usually royalty, sent here to disappear. Under the Ottomans, they became a summer retreat for the wealthy Greek, Armenian, and Jewish communities of Istanbul. That legacy survives in the wooden konaks (mansions) on Büyükada's Nizam and Hamlacı streets, the abandoned Halki seminary on Heybeliada, and the quiet Armenian churches on Kınalıada. Geographically, the archipelago sits in the Marmara's shipping lanes — you'll see tankers and container ships glide past as you swim off Burgazada's coves. The lack of cars (banned since 1961) forces you to walk, cycle, or take a phaeton, which slows everything down. That's the point: the islands are a deliberate anachronism, a place where Istanbul's relentless energy dissolves into the sound of waves and cicadas.
The big one, and the most crowded. The main drag, Çınar Caddesi, is a parade of tourist restaurants selling mediocre döner at inflated prices (40 TL for a tea). Skip them. Walk up to Aya Yorgi Monastery — 203 m climb, 20 minutes, views over the entire archipelago. The villas on Hamlacı Street are the real draw: ornate 1890s woodwork, peeling paint, wisteria. Since 2020, the traditional fanus carriages have been replaced by electric buggies — quieter, but less romantic. Rent a bike instead (50 TL/hour) and circle the island's 14 km perimeter.
Second-largest, greener, more pine forest. The Halki Greek Orthodox Seminary sits on a hilltop, closed since 1971 by Turkish law — you can only peer through the gate. The naval academy (Deniz Harp Okulu) is off-limits too. The real reason to come: the hiking trail to Değirmen Burnu (Windmill Point), a 5 km loop through Aleppo pines with sea views. The beaches are rocky but swimmable; the main beach at Ayyıldız costs 20 TL entry. Don't bother with the horse carriages — walk or rent a bike.
The quietest of the four inhabited islands, and the one most locals prefer. Sait Faik Museum, in the writer's actual house, is a modest two-room affair (free entry, closed Mondays) with his glasses, manuscripts, and a sad little garden. The swimming coves on the north coast — Kalpazankaya and Madam Martha — are rocky but clean, with no facilities. Bring a towel and a sandwich. The ferry from Kabataş takes 75 minutes, but it's worth the extra time. No nightlife, no crowds, just old men playing backgammon under the plane trees.
Closest to Istanbul (45 minutes from Bostancı), smallest of the inhabited four, and the least charming. The beaches are narrow and pebbly; the water is murkier than the outer islands. The main attraction is the Armenian Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Church, a 19th-century stone building with a small museum of Armenian life. It's a fine day trip if you only have half a day, but don't expect the pine forests or elegant villas of Büyükada. The island is mostly rocky hillside and summer homes. Skip the overpriced beach clubs (80 TL entry, bad food).
Tiny island behind Büyükada, reachable by private boat or the occasional ferry from Büyükada. There's one beach club — Sedef Adası Beach Club — that charges 150 TL entry and serves decent grilled fish. The rest of the island is private summer homes and a small marina. If you want a quieter alternative to Büyükada's packed beaches, it works. But don't make a special trip; the ferry schedule is unreliable, and you'll spend more time waiting than swimming.
Uninhabited, spoon-shaped (kaşık means spoon), and passed by every ferry. You'll see it from the deck — a low green hump with a few scrub pines and a rocky shore. No one gets off here; there's no pier, no beach, nothing. It's a landmark, not a destination. The only reason to mention it is that the ferries sometimes slow down so you can photograph it. Don't bother trying to visit.
Ferries are the only option. IDO (İstanbul Deniz Otobüsleri) runs car ferries and fast catamarans from Yenikapı, Bostancı, and Kabataş. The fast ferry (deniz otobüsü) from Yenikapı to Büyükada takes 55 minutes and costs 35 TL; the classic ferry (vapur) from Eminönü takes 90 minutes and costs 30 TL. Buy an İstanbulkart — it works on all ferries. For a single day, leave by 8:30 AM from Eminönü to Büyükada, walk to Aya Yorgi, have lunch at a non-tourist spot (try the market area behind the ferry dock), and catch the 4 PM ferry back. Overnight stays are possible — there are a handful of small hotels on Büyükada and Heybeliada — but book months ahead for summer weekends. The islands are dead in winter (November–March), when many restaurants close and ferries run reduced schedules. Base yourself in Istanbul's Kadıköy or Bostancı for the shortest ferry rides.
May–June and September are ideal: water temperatures around 22°C, fewer crowds, and the pine forests smell of resin. July–August is peak season — weekend ferries are sardine cans, and the beaches on Büyükada are packed by 10 AM. The water is warmest in August (25°C), but the crowds make it barely worthwhile. October is pleasant for hiking, but swimming is cold (18°C). November–March: ferries are cancelled in rough weather, most cafes close, and the islands feel abandoned. Go in late April for the Judas tree blossoms — the hillsides turn pink.
Seafood is the default: grilled fish (levrek, çupra) at the meyhanes on Büyükada's Çınar Square. The local specialty is 'ada balığı' — any fish caught that morning, simply grilled with olive oil and lemon. For a quick lunch, try 'midye tava' (fried mussels with garlic sauce) at the stalls near the ferry dock on Büyükada. The islands have no vineyards, but the rakı flows freely. Don't bother with the 'Ada Dondurması' (island ice cream) — it's overpriced tourist stuff. Instead, buy fresh cherries or figs from the market in July.
The horse carriages (fayton) on Büyükada are a tourist trap — 150 TL for a 30-minute loop that you could walk in 20 minutes. The animals are often mistreated; since 2020, electric buggies have been replacing them, but the carriage operators still push hard. Skip the 'beach clubs' on Büyükada (like Yörükali) — they charge 100 TL entry, the water is murky, and the music is terrible. The Aya Yorgi monastery itself is a small, unremarkable church; the real reason to go is the view. Don't buy 'local' souvenirs — the wooden trinkets are made in China. And never take the last ferry back on a Sunday evening; you'll be standing for 90 minutes.
Take an IDO ferry from Yenikapı, Bostancı, or Kabataş. The classic vapur from Eminönü is the cheapest (30 TL) and most scenic, but takes 90 minutes to Büyükada. The fast deniz otobüsü from Yenikapı takes 55 minutes and costs 35 TL. Buy an İstanbulkart at any kiosk — you can't pay cash on the ferry.
On Büyükada, try Splanza Hotel or Büyükada Hotel — both are small, old-fashioned, and near the ferry dock. On Heybeliada, Halki Palace Hotel is a converted 19th-century mansion. Book at least two months ahead for July–August. Prices start at 150 USD/night for a decent room.
Late May or early September. The water is swimmable (22°C), the crowds are thin, and the pine forests smell great. July–August is too hot and crowded; November–March is too cold and many places are closed.
A day trip is fine if you stick to one island — Büyükada or Heybeliada. Leave by 8:30 AM, walk to the monastery, have lunch, and catch the 4 PM ferry. For two or more islands, stay overnight. The islands empty out after 6 PM, and the evening light on the villas is worth the hotel cost.
Ferry round trip: 60 TL. Bike rental: 50 TL/hour. Lunch: 150 TL for a grilled fish plate. Total: about 300 TL per person (roughly $10 USD). Beach club entry: 80–150 TL extra. Bring cash — many places don't take cards.
Yes, but the beaches are rocky. Burgazada's Kalpazankaya cove is the best — quiet, clean, no entry fee. Büyükada's main beach is crowded and mediocre. Heybeliada's Ayyıldız beach charges 20 TL and has showers. Avoid Kınalıada's beaches — the water is murky from shipping traffic.
The exact plan we'd give a friend visiting Istanbul. Where to eat, what to skip, how to avoid tourist traps.
No spam. Unsubscribe anytime.